Owner Ben Cook's business card, which can be picked up at the counter of his sublime meat-and-three restaurant Wendell Smith's, reads: "Restaurant/Liquor Store/Country Cookin'/Whiskey & Wine." Given the peculiarities of Tennessee's liquor laws, each environment at Wendell Smith's, always a family owned and operated business since opening in 1952, has a separate entrance on this busy, industrialized corner of West Nashville's Charlotte Avenue. A personalized, autographed photo of Dolly Parton resides above the counter, as do photos of local judges alongside a photo of a splayed-out drunk. Cook seems to know every other person's first name. Working-class folks of all ages and colors cram into the booths and tables for the meat-and-three country cooking. Selections are made from a mimeographed menu that changes daily. The food is quickly delivered to your table, and the service remains unbelievably attentive, as if they're breaking a local ordinance if your water glass doesn't remain filled to the brim. You can hardly go wrong with any of the meats and side items: The turnip greens, cucumber salad and creamed potatoes in particular are some of the best renditions in town. A recommended rib-sticking country ham, biscuits, gravy and grits breakfast is available daily.