From the St. Cloud Times
: There’s more to eggs than scrambled breakfast. Poached, fried or
soft-boiled, premium eggs are getting serious culinary treatment at some
of the finest restaurants these days. They’re cracked atop wood-fired
pizzas, tossed into pasta, and some are even taking a solo turn as an
amuse bouche on some tasting menus.
Woodside, Calif.’s Village Pub, for example, executive chef Dmitry
Elperin’s signature glistening poached egg isn’t accompanied by bacon or
home fries. Rather, it’s perched atop house-made spaghettini and served
with sauteed artichokes, shaved bottarga and a vegetable nage — a
flavorful French stock — for dinner.
are the most simple form of elegance,” says Elperin, who loves serving
poached eggs with crispy sweet breads and chicory. “We relate them to
caviar. And to our childhoods. They’re rich, neutral and simply a great
vehicle for transporting flavor.”
have firm roots in classic French cooking, say Elperin and his
colleagues, and Americans are catching on — and adding their own spin.
so respects the egg that he uses a sous vide immersion circulator to
maintain a water bath at exactly 144.5 degrees, the optimal temperature
for poaching an egg slowly, in its own shell, for 45 minutes.
ensures that the egg is the perfect consistency and dates back to the
French techniques of cooking eggs in the most delicate way possible,”
says Elperin, who sources his prized organic eggs from Glaum Egg Ranch
in Aptos, Calif.
Oakland, Calif.’s Marzano and its sister restaurant, Hudson, eggs are
cooked to perfection atop artisanal pizzas in wood-fired ovens.
Two-year-old Marzano offers nine delicate, blistered, Neapolitan pizzas,
including a garlicky meatball marinara, all with the option of an added
egg for $2. And on Hudson’s opening night Jan. 18, executive chef
Robert Holt was cracking eggs onto pizzas topped with wild nettles and
fresh goat cheese, or spicy pork sausage with braised Tuscan kale.
on a pizza is just like breakfast, but you’re eating it for dinner,”
says Holt. “People just love that savory flavor and texture.”
Read More: St. Cloud Times