
Almost every great barbecue joint comes with a great origin
story. There's usually a secret technique or recipe transcribed in
an ancient rural dialect and handed down by a grizzled great uncle
who never slept for tending the pit. McClard's
Bar-B-Q in Hot Springs, AR proves to be no exception. A
hotbed of illegal gambling in the late 19th century and a favorite
hangout of Al Capone and other gangsters in the '30s and '40s, Hot
Springs was not a place unfamiliar with shady deals and unorthodox
business transactions. Though the origins of McClard's were by no
means criminal, they were certainly unusual. Alex and Gladys
McClard weren't in the food business at the time. Rather, they ran
a small hotel near Hot Springs National Park. As the story goes, a
traveler who was unable to pay the $10 for his two-month stay
offered the McClards alternative compensation: a recipe for the
"the world's greatest barbecue sauce." The rest is history. They
transformed the hotel into a barbecue restaurant in 1928 - goat was
the centerpiece of the menu - and moved to their current location
in 1942. While passing through Hot Springs on scenic highway 7, I
couldn't resist stopping in for some of their legendary
barbecue.
A full parking lot at 11 am on a Friday afternoon came as no
surprise. As my dining companions and I entered what was likely the
incorrect door, we were greeted by all sorts of Clinton-related
paraphernalia - Bill and Hillary always made it a point to stop in
McClard's when in the area (that is, before Slick Willy surprised
us all by
going vegan). The bustling restaurant had no available tables,
and we definitely drew a few "y'all ain't from around here, are
ya?" looks as we stood awkwardly, attempting to decipher the
seating system, which is somewhat non-existent. Turnover is pretty
quick at McClard's, so it wasn't before long until our party of
five was seated in a huge booth, after a friendly elderly couple
offered to give up their sizeable table and sit at a smaller one
(Arkansas friendliness is a special thing).
As for the barbecue, the menu offered a wide variety of options,
from ribs and sandwiches to pork and beef, both available chopped
and sliced. I've long held that Arkansas is somewhat of a barbecue
no-man's-land. It's not far from Memphis where pork is king, and it
shares a border with Texas, where the cow dominates the 'cue scene.
Even St. Louis is only a few hours away. This might explain why I
grew up eating soiee-moiee sandwiches -- that's both pork and beef
bbq on the same bun --at a barbecue restaurant in my grandparents'
home town in Northwest Arkansas, but I digress. We decided to try a
little of everything and were not disappointed with the results. I
opted for the rib and fry plate, which is about what it sounds
like: a pound of ribs absolutely covered in French fries. I
eventually needed an additional plate to pile fries upon just so I
could get to the ribs unimpeded. Generally, I'd prefer a dry rub,
but since the sauce is the specialty at McClard's (the recipe
currently resides in a safety deposit box elsewhere) I opted for
sauce on the ribs. This was not a regrettable decision: the thin,
peppery vinegar sauce with a touch of sweetness and a late spicy
kick absolutely lived up to the hype. As for the ribs themselves,
they were heavily seasoned, tender and quite meaty, albeit slightly
fatty - not that I'm complaining about this.

Perhaps the most unique item available at McClard's however, is
the Tamale Spread. This monstrous creation consists of two
open-faced tamales covered with Fritos, beans, chopped beef bbq,
and a ton of cheese and onions. Somewhat akin to a Frito pie, but
from a barbecue angle, it carries an intense combinations of
flavors. Strange as it may sound, it's an absolute must try at
McClard's.

As we staggered back to the car after our heavy meal -- with
"lard" in the title, we weren't expecting a light lunch -- I
couldn't help being impressed and relieved that a place with such a
colorful history and reputation was keeping the quality at such a
high level. Some spots coast on their name and know they'll draw
enough tourists so that it doesn't matter. But as is often the case
with barbecue, it's a matter of pride. And shortcuts are not taken
by the country's best pitmasters. For further reading, take a look
at our selection of the country's 20 best
barbecue restaurants.
