We're avid supporters of the slow food movement and sustainable
food practices here at LocalEats. But when it comes to dining out,
eating green often comes with a hefty price tag and at times, a bit
of a pretention. Again, not knocking the practices, but the
self-congratulatory nature of some self-described farm-to-table
restaurants can be a bit much to stomach. And this is precisely why
the Oinkster in Eagle Rock (northeast Los Angeles) is such a
refreshing concept. The
Oinkster, from chef/restaurateur Andre Guerrero, calls its
cuisine "slow fast food." They cure their pastrami in house (for
two weeks) and slow-cook their pork. They use superior ingredients
and generally avoid shortcuts -- condiments, sauces and dressings
are made from scratch. But rather than expensive, pretentious and
exclusive, the Oinkster is affordable (everything is under $10),
and fun. The Oinkster proves that fast food need not be made from
lousy ingredients, and that slow food need not be so damn serious
-- or only found at upscale restaurants.
All conceptual restaurant talk aside, I had the good fortune of
stopping in at the Oinkster following a concert in Eagle Rock. The
brightly-lit, kitschy building (formerly a Jim's Burgers) on
Colorado Boulevard proved irresistible to my companions and me,
completely famished at 11:30 pm. With five or six craft beers on
tap, the Oinkster was already putting a life's worth of fast food
experiences to shame before we'd even tried a bite of food. Leading
off was an excellent hefty pastrami sandwich with caramelized
onion, red cabbage slaw and gruyere. The pulled pork sandwich with
a Carolina-style vinegar sauce was equally impressive -- and
I'm as skeptical as they come, when barbecue makes an appearance
outside of the South, save for Kansas City and St. Louis. And then
there were the fries, worth a trip alone. These Belgian-style
double fried spuds were some of the finest I've encountered in a
city not named Brussels. Here's to hoping that slowing down fast
food and bringing slow food down to earth catches on elsewhere.
They're pulling off the balancing act quite well at the
Oinkster.

