After one particularly insufferable, exorbitantly expensive
meal, a fed up
Frank Bruni asserts that our culture's "food madness" has
become "food psychosis" in this
New York Times op-ed. The former NYT head dining
critic reached a breaking point following an 11-course meal in
which each course was paired with a different flavored water -- a
wordy flashcard accompanied each dish as well. So the question is:
has our dining-obsessed culture gone off the deep end? Or is Mr.
Bruni's perspective perhaps colored by the fact that his occupation
frequently exposes him to the worst offenders? I can't help but
agree with him to an extent that the dining experience has become
too precious and that at times, "we've tumbled far, far down the
organic rabbit hole."
I recently waited an hour for a cocktail at a speakeasy-style
cocktail bar/restaurant, where they make all the mixers in house
and they smash, muddle, strain, ignite and molest the hell out of
every artisanal ingredient. When inquiring about my drink (at the
30 and 45 minute marks), I was told by multiple suspender-clad
servers, "We take a little more care with our cocktails, so
naturally it's going to take a little bit longer than at most
places." Clearly there was a mix-up in the line of communication,
which happens at restaurants all the time. I have no issue with
this, but being shrugged off with the same long-winded spiel was a
bit much. When a restaurant favors lofty production and paragraph
length descriptions for entrees, they often lose track of some very
basic principles of hospitality and competence.
It's hard to argue with Mr. Bruni's exasperation, as high
production restaurants get more ridiculous, foodies more obsessive
and farm-to-table menus more self-congratulatory, but I find there
are also a few encouraging trends that seem to have their roots in
real food. Burgers, pizza and tacos are among the most talked about
foodstuffs on the internet. Barbecue restaurants outside the South,
though seemingly more trendy than legitimate at first, are starting
to finally get it -- realizing that it's about the smoke, not
having 10 kinds of sauce and cheeky side items. The food truck
movement has created a resurgence in street food. Sure, it's
occasionally silly -- $8 for a grilled cheese is steep -- but
cheesesteaks, burgers, tacos and noodles are all unpretentious
foods at heart. It just makes more sense to pay street prices
rather than sit down for "upscale pub food" or "contemporary
Mexican" with a $12 bowl of guacamole. Our food obsessed nation
should probably get a grip and just enjoy a meal without taking
pictures of it (I'm 100% guilty of this), but at least there are
positive signs indicating our food fixation often rewards purveyors
of real, down-to-earth food.
(Sadly, this is not a farfetched scenario for those afflicted
with food psychosis)